Removing glued-down wood flooring is a challenging task, it requires patience and the right tools. The glue creates a strong bond between the wood flooring and the subfloor. Heat guns, floor scrapers, and adhesive removers assist in softening the adhesive and lifting the wood. Subfloor damage during removal is a common concern, proper techniques minimize this risk.
Alright, so you’re staring down the barrel of a glued-down wood floor removal project? Let’s be real, it’s not exactly a walk in the park. More like a grueling hike through the sticky, splintery wilderness. But hey, don’t sweat it! With the right know-how, a little elbow grease, and maybe a few choice curse words (we won’t judge), you can totally conquer this DIY challenge.
Removing glued-down wood flooring can feel like battling an enemy that just won’t surrender. Whether it’s years of adhesive bonding the wood to the subfloor or the sheer stubbornness of the material itself, it can feel overwhelming. That’s why going in blind is a bad idea! Employing proper techniques and safety measures isn’t just good advice; it’s your secret weapon to a successful DIY project. Trust us, a little preparation now can save you a world of headaches (and maybe a trip to the emergency room) later.
So, what’s the game plan? We’ll give you a sneak peek: think of it like a multi-stage mission. First, we’ll gear up with the right tools and safety equipment. Then, we’ll assess the battlefield (your flooring and adhesive types) to choose the best attack strategy. Next, it’s demolition time, followed by adhesive removal, and finally, subfloor prep. By following these steps, you’ll be ready to install your dream floor in no time! It sounds like a lot, but the following tips, tricks and techniques will arm you with all that you need to know!
Safety First: Don’t Be a Dummy, Protect Yourself!
Okay, let’s get real. Ripping up glued-down wood flooring is no walk in the park. It’s a battle! And like any good battle, you need armor. We’re not talking shining knight armor (although, if that’s your thing, go for it!). We’re talking about basic safety gear to keep you from ending up in the emergency room. Trust me, a splinter the size of a toothpick is bad enough, but a chemical burn from some mystery adhesive? No thank you!
So, before you even THINK about picking up a scraper, let’s talk protection. Because let’s face it, you’re worth it!
Shield Your Peepers: Eye Protection
Think of your eyes as precious jewels… or maybe just essential tools for seeing where you’re going. Either way, you need to protect them! Imagine a rogue chunk of wood or adhesive flying straight for your eyeball – yikes! That’s why safety glasses or goggles are a MUST. Not your regular sunglasses, mind you. We’re talking the real deal, impact-resistant kind. These are like tiny, stylish (okay, maybe not stylish) shields for your eyes. Wear them. Always. End of story.
Glove Up: Hand Protection
Your hands are your moneymakers, your DIY heroes, the things that grip your coffee mug in the morning! Don’t let them suffer the wrath of harsh chemicals and sharp edges. Those adhesives and solvents can be nasty, causing burns, irritation, and all sorts of unpleasantness. And splinters…oh the splinters! Invest in a good pair of chemical-resistant gloves. Think of them as tiny, superhero suits for your hands. Make sure they fit well and cover your entire hand and wrist area. Your skin will thank you!
Air It Out: Ventilation is Key
Now, let’s talk about breathing. You know, that thing that keeps you alive? Many adhesives and solvents release fumes that are, shall we say, not exactly good for you. Inhaling them can cause dizziness, headaches, and other not-so-fun symptoms. So, ventilation is crucial! Open those windows wide! Set up some fans to create airflow. If you’re working in a small, enclosed space, consider wearing a respirator mask. Think of it as your personal air purifier, keeping those nasty fumes away from your precious lungs.
HUGE WARNING: Asbestos Alert!
Okay, this is super important. If you’re working in an older home (especially one built before the 1980s), there’s a chance the adhesive could contain asbestos. Asbestos is a dangerous material, and disturbing it can release harmful fibers into the air. If you even suspect the presence of asbestos, STOP WORK IMMEDIATELY! Do not touch it, do not scrape it, do not even look at it funny! Contact a qualified professional for testing and removal. Seriously, this is not something to mess around with. Your health and safety are paramount! This is not something to DIY.
Gathering Your Arsenal: Tools and Materials Checklist
Alright, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. Before you even think about ripping up that old flooring, you need the right tools. Trying to remove glued-down wood flooring without the proper equipment is like trying to eat soup with a fork – messy and ultimately unsatisfying. Think of this section as your shopping list and the explanation for each tool. Let’s get ready to have some fun.
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Scraper (various widths): You’ll want a few of these in different sizes. Think of them as your trusty foot soldiers. A wider scraper is great for tackling large, open areas, while a narrower one can squeeze into tighter spots. You’ll be using these bad boys for lifting and removing the flooring, so make sure they’re sturdy.
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Putty Knife: This is your stealthy ninja for those super-tight corners and tricky spots. It’s smaller and more maneuverable than a scraper, making it perfect for getting under edges and starting the prying process. Don’t underestimate its power.
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Pry Bar: Ah, the muscle of the operation! When those flooring sections are being stubborn, the pry bar is your best friend. It provides the leverage you need to lift larger, more resistant sections. Think of it as the Hulk of your toolbox.
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Hammer: Sometimes, you just need a little percussive persuasion. The hammer will be your go-to when you need to tap the chisel or pry bar to get things moving. It’s the gentle nudge that can make all the difference.
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Chisel: For those super-stubborn areas, especially in tight corners or along edges, the chisel is your precision instrument. Pair it with the hammer, and you can carefully separate the flooring without causing too much damage.
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Reciprocating Saw and/or Circular Saw: If you’re dealing with a large area, cutting the flooring into manageable sections is key. A reciprocating saw (saw-zall) can get into tight spots, while a circular saw is great for straight cuts across larger sections. Just be careful not to damage the subfloor.
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Heat Gun or Hair Dryer: Heat is your secret weapon for softening tough adhesives. Use it to gently warm the adhesive, making it easier to scrape away. BUT, be very careful not to overheat the adhesive or damage the subfloor. And for goodness sake, don’t start a fire! Keep the heat gun moving, and don’t hold it in one spot for too long.
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Floor Scraper Machine (Optional): If you’re tackling a massive flooring project, consider renting one of these beasts. It’ll save you a ton of time and effort. Think of it as upgrading from a bicycle to a motorcycle but remember to follow the guidelines!
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Shop Vacuum: Essential for keeping the work area clean and free of debris. You’ll be amazed at how much dust and gunk gets kicked up during this process. A shop vac is a must-have to maintain a safe and manageable workspace.
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Plastic Scraper: For those delicate surfaces or when working with flooring that scratches easily, a plastic scraper is your best bet. It’s gentler than a metal scraper, reducing the risk of damage.
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Solvent (Mineral Spirits, Adhesive Remover): To dissolve and soften any residual adhesive, you’ll need a good solvent. Mineral spirits are a classic choice, but there are also specialized adhesive removers available. Just make sure to choose the right solvent for the type of adhesive you’re dealing with.
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Rags/Cloths: You’ll need plenty of these for applying solvents, cleaning up spills, and wiping down surfaces. Old t-shirts work great!
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Garbage Bags: For disposing of the old flooring, adhesive, and other waste materials. Get the heavy-duty ones, you’ll thank yourself later.
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Floor Leveler/Patching Compound: After removing the old flooring, you’ll likely need to patch up any imperfections in the subfloor. Floor leveler/patching compound will help you create a smooth, even surface for your new flooring. This will ensure that you have a proper, clean area.
Know Your Enemy: Identifying Flooring and Adhesive Types
Okay, so you’re ready to rumble with that glued-down flooring, huh? But hold your horses, partner! Before you go all demolition derby on your floor, it’s crucial to play detective. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t prescribe medicine without knowing what ails ya, right? Same deal here. You gotta know what kind of flooring and adhesive you’re dealing with to choose the right weapons (ahem, tools and solvents) for the job. Trust me, a little bit of ID work now will save you a whole lotta headache (and potentially some serious subfloor damage) later.
Decoding Your Flooring: A Crash Course
Let’s start with the flooring itself. Is it the real deal, or is it playing dress-up? Here’s a quick rundown:
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Solid Hardwood Flooring: This is the OG of flooring. It’s made from a single, solid piece of wood. If you can see the same wood grain pattern all the way through the edge, you’ve likely got solid hardwood. It’s usually the most expensive and has a timeless appeal.
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Engineered Hardwood Flooring: Think of this as hardwood’s smarter, slightly less expensive cousin. It’s made up of multiple layers of wood, with a veneer of real hardwood on top. This makes it more stable and less prone to warping than solid hardwood, but it can be tricky to tell apart at first glance. Look at the edges closely to see the layers.
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Parquet Flooring: Remember those geometric patterns that were all the rage back in the day? That’s parquet! It’s made from small pieces of wood arranged in squares, triangles, or other fancy designs. If you’ve got parquet, you’ve got some serious style (or a serious retro vibe, depending on your perspective).
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Laminate Flooring: This is the imposter, folks. It’s a synthetic material made to look like wood, but it’s not the real thing. It’s usually cheaper than hardwood and easier to install, but it doesn’t have the same warmth or character. Look for a repeating pattern in the “wood grain” to spot a laminate floor.
Unmasking the Adhesive: What’s Holding You Down?
Now for the sticky situation: the adhesive. Figuring out what kind of glue is holding your floor hostage is just as important as knowing the type of flooring. Here are some common culprits:
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Construction Adhesive: This is the all-purpose workhorse of the adhesive world. It’s strong, readily available, and used for just about everything. It’s usually tan or brown in color and can be a pain to remove.
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Urethane Adhesive: This stuff is flexible and durable, making it a popular choice for wood flooring. It’s often a light tan or beige color and can be a bit easier to soften than construction adhesive.
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Epoxy Adhesive: Think of this as the super glue of the flooring world. It’s incredibly strong and rigid, making it a real challenge to remove. It’s usually a two-part system that needs to be mixed before application.
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Mastic: This is a rubbery adhesive that’s often used with tiles, but sometimes it sneaks its way under wood flooring too. It’s usually black or dark brown in color and has a distinctive, slightly rubbery smell.
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Cutback Adhesive: THIS IS WHERE THINGS GET SERIOUS! This is an older type of adhesive that may contain asbestos. If you suspect you have cutback adhesive (it’s usually black and has a tar-like appearance), DO NOT DISTURB IT! Asbestos is a hazardous material that can cause serious health problems. Contact a qualified professional for testing and removal immediately. I’m not kidding, this is super important. Your health is way more important than saving a few bucks on DIY.
The Removal Process: A Step-by-Step Guide
Alright, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty! You’ve prepped your space, gathered your tools, and now it’s time to actually rip up that glued-down wood flooring. Buckle up, because this is where the elbow grease comes in. We’re going to break it down into easy-to-follow steps so you don’t feel overwhelmed. Trust me, you got this!
Cutting the Flooring into Manageable Sections
Trying to remove an entire room’s worth of flooring in one go? Forget about it! That’s a recipe for back pain and frustration. Instead, grab your trusty circular saw or reciprocating saw and cut that flooring into smaller, more manageable sections. Think of it like slicing a pizza – easier to handle one slice at a time, right?
Pro Tip: Set the saw blade depth carefully to avoid damaging the subfloor underneath. You want to cut through the flooring, not carve a new landscape into your subfloor. A little finesse here saves a lot of headaches later!
Softening the Adhesive
Now, let’s talk about that stubborn glue. You’ve got two main weapons in your arsenal: solvents and heat.
- Solvent Application: This is where you break out the big guns – the adhesive remover or mineral spirits. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter, and don’t skimp on the dwell time. You want that solvent to really soak in and loosen up the adhesive. And seriously, open those windows and get some fans going! You don’t want to be breathing in those fumes all day long.
- Heat Application: A heat gun or even a humble hair dryer can work wonders. Gently heat the adhesive, being careful not to scorch the wood or the subfloor. Keep the heat gun moving in a sweeping motion, like you’re giving the floor a warm massage. Patience is key here, don’t rush!
Scraping and Prying
Okay, the glue is softened, now for the satisfying part!
- Scraping: Grab your scraper and start working at the edges of the flooring sections. Angle the scraper and apply steady pressure to lift the flooring. If it’s coming up easily, you’re in business! If not, don’t force it. Go back and apply more solvent or heat.
- Prying: When scraping isn’t enough, it’s time to bring in the pry bar. But before you start heaving away, protect the subfloor with a piece of wood. This will prevent you from gouging or damaging the surface underneath. Position the pry bar and gently lift the flooring, using the wood as a buffer.
Addressing Stubborn Areas
Inevitably, you’ll encounter areas where the adhesive is holding on for dear life. Don’t panic!
- Chisel and Hammer: This is where the chisel and hammer come in. Carefully position the chisel at the edge of the flooring and tap it gently with the hammer. The goal is to gradually separate the flooring from the subfloor without causing any major damage. Work slowly and methodically, and you’ll eventually break through the stubborn adhesive.
Remember, removing glued-down wood flooring is a marathon, not a sprint. Take your time, be patient, and don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques. And most importantly, have fun with it (well, as much fun as you can have while ripping up a floor!).
Adhesive Removal: Say Goodbye to Sticky Situations!
Alright, you’ve wrestled that old flooring up and out – congratulations! But hold on a minute, partner, your work ain’t quite done yet. You’re probably staring at a subfloor that looks like it lost a fight with a glue factory. That stubborn adhesive residue needs to vamoose before you even think about laying down that shiny new flooring. Trust me, skipping this step is like building a house on a foundation of peanut brittle – it’s just not gonna end well.
Selecting the Right Solvent: Know Your Glue’s Kryptonite
First things first, remember that adhesive type we identified earlier? Now’s its time to remember it because it is payback time. Different glues respond to different solvents like vampires to sunlight. Mineral spirits might work wonders on one adhesive, while an adhesive remover might be needed on another. Check the adhesive remover label to make sure it won’t eat away at your subfloor, especially if it’s wood or some sort of delicate material.
Applying the Solvent and Scraping: The Soak and Scrape Tango
Time for the satisfying part! Slather on that solvent according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Give it some dwell time – that’s fancy talk for “let it soak in and do its magic.” Now, grab your trusty scraper and get to work! You might need to put some elbow grease into it, but that softened adhesive should start peeling away. Repeat as needed, and don’t be afraid to get a little messy!
Alternative Methods: Bring in the Big Guns!
- Floor Scraper Machine: Got a vast expanse of sticky residue? A floor scraper machine can be a serious timesaver. These brutes are designed to make short work of adhesive removal, but they demand respect. Read the instructions carefully, wear your safety gear, and don’t go all demolition derby on your subfloor!
Subfloor Preparation: Creating a Solid Foundation
Alright, you’ve wrestled that old glued-down flooring into submission! But hold your horses, partner; the job ain’t over ’til the subfloor sings (or, you know, at least lies flat and doesn’t creak). Think of your subfloor as the unsung hero of your flooring project. It’s like the foundation of a house – if it’s wonky, everything you put on top of it will be too! We need to make sure it’s ready to roll.
First things first: inspect! Get down on your hands and knees (or use a comfy creeper, no judgement here!) and really get to know your subfloor. Is it concrete? Wood (plywood or OSB)? Are there cracks big enough to lose a small pet in? Any signs of water damage like stains, mold, or warping? Are there nail heads sticking up or screw holes? The more you know about its flaws, the better you can fix them.
Next up: cleanliness is next to floorliness! Grab your shop vacuum (your new best friend) and go to town. We’re talking suck up every last bit of dust, debris, old adhesive chunks, and stray screws. You want a pristine surface for the next steps. A clean subfloor allows your leveling compound to properly bond. Think of it like trying to paint a muddy wall – it just ain’t gonna work!
Now, for the grand finale: leveling! This is where the magic happens. If you’ve got a few minor imperfections, a floor-leveling compound or patching compound is your go-to. These self-leveling mixtures are like pancake batter for your floor – you pour them on, spread them around, and they fill in all the low spots.
Important Note: Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Mixing ratios, drying times, and application techniques can vary. Don’t wing it; you’ll end up with a lumpy mess!
Once you’ve applied the compound, let it dry completely (again, check the instructions). You should now have a smooth, level surface ready to welcome its new flooring overlord. Pat yourself on the back, you’ve just created a solid foundation for success!
Safety Precautions Revisited: Staying Safe Throughout the Project
Alright, you’ve made it this far! You’re probably feeling like a demolition expert already. But before you start celebrating with that new floor, let’s do a quick safety check. Think of this as your superhero suit fitting one last time before you save the day (or, you know, install some new flooring). We’re not trying to be buzzkills here, but trust us, a few reminders can save you from a whole heap of trouble.
Asbestos Alert: When in Doubt, Call the Pros!
Okay, let’s talk about the elephant in the room – asbestos. We mentioned it earlier, but it’s worth repeating because it’s super important. If you’re working on an older home (think pre-1980s), there’s a chance some materials might contain asbestos. Don’t freak out, but do be cautious. If you see something that looks suspicious (like old, crumbly floor tiles or adhesives), DO NOT DISTURB IT! Seriously, leave it alone. Get a qualified asbestos abatement professional to test it. This isn’t a DIY situation. Your health is way more important than saving a few bucks, so let’s leave this task for professionals.
Playing with Fire (and Solvents): Don’t Be a Hothead!
Next up, flammable stuff. Solvents and heat guns are your buddies for softening adhesives, but they’re like that friend who’s fun but can be a bit reckless. Solvents often release fumes that can ignite, and heat guns, well, they’re basically mini flamethrowers. So, a few rules:
- Keep open flames away from solvents.
- Don’t smoke while you’re working.
- Make sure you have plenty of ventilation – open those windows and get some air flowing!
- Don’t leave a heat gun unattended while it’s turned on!
*Eyes on the Prize (and Protected!) *
Seriously, those safety glasses? Wear them. All the time. Even when you think you don’t need them. Dust, debris, adhesive splatter – your eyes are vulnerable. Think of those glasses as your personal force field. Protect those peepers.
Hand-ling with Care
Those chemical-resistant gloves we talked about earlier? They’re not just for show. Adhesives and solvents can irritate your skin, causing rashes and other unpleasantness. Plus, you don’t want to get that sticky goo all over your hands; it’s a nightmare to clean off! So, glove up, buttercup!
Breathe Easy, Breathe Safe
Remember that ventilation thing we keep harping on? Yeah, it’s still important. Solvents release fumes that can make you feel dizzy, nauseous, or just plain crummy. So, keep those windows open, turn on a fan, and take breaks to get some fresh air. Your lungs will thank you.
So, there you have it – a friendly reminder to stay safe out there. We know you’re eager to get that new floor installed, but taking a few extra precautions will ensure that you do it without any bumps, bruises, or trips to the emergency room. Now, get back to work, and stay safe!
Cleaning and Disposal: Sweeping Away the Mess and Saying Goodbye!
Alright, you’ve wrestled that glued-down beast of a floor into submission – congrats! But hold your horses; the job isn’t quite finished. Before you start picturing your brand-new flooring, it’s crucial to deal with the aftermath. We’re talking about cleaning up the battlefield and sending the remnants of your old floor off to that big recycling center in the sky (or, you know, the local landfill). Let’s get this done right!
Operation Clean Sweep: Dust Bunnies Beware!
First up, it’s time for a thorough cleaning blitz. Grab your trusty shop vacuum – this is your weapon of choice against the mountains of dust, debris, and sneaky adhesive chunks that are now plotting to ruin your sock collection. Seriously, don’t skimp on this step! Get into every nook and cranny, under the baseboards (if you’ve removed them), and make sure that subfloor is as clean as a whistle. Think of it as prepping a canvas for a masterpiece – your new floor deserves a pristine foundation.
Tossing the Trash: A Responsible Farewell
Now, for the less glamorous but equally important part: proper disposal. We can’t just chuck everything into the nearest dumpster.
- Check Your Local Regulations: This isn’t as fun as it sounds but depending on where you live, there might be specific rules about disposing of construction debris, especially if you used any solvents or suspect you encountered asbestos-containing materials. A quick Google search for “[Your City/County] construction waste disposal” should get you started.
- Separate and Conquer: Sort your waste. Old flooring can sometimes be recycled or repurposed. Solvents and adhesives usually require special handling due to their chemical nature.
- Designated Containers: Use sturdy garbage bags or containers to prevent spills and leaks.
- Waste Disposal Facility: Load up your car or truck and take the waste to an approved disposal facility.
- Consider the environment, it will thank you!
This might seem like a tedious task, but trust me, your peace of mind (and the environment) will thank you for taking the time to do it right! Plus, you’ll avoid any potential fines or environmental hazards.
So there you have it! With the cleanup complete and the waste properly disposed of, you’ve officially conquered the glued-down flooring removal challenge. Now you can stand back, admire your clean, prepped subfloor, and get ready for the exciting part: installing your gorgeous new floor!
What tools are necessary for removing glued-down wood flooring?
Removing glued-down wood flooring requires specific tools that facilitate the process efficiently and safely. A wide scraper assists homeowners in lifting flooring sections. A demolition hammer provides significant force during removal. A heat gun softens the adhesive for easier prying. A pry bar offers leverage when lifting stubborn pieces. Safety glasses protect eyes from debris. Work gloves protect hands from injury. A utility knife helps in cutting the flooring around edges. These tools collectively ensure effective flooring removal.
What techniques should be used to safely detach glued wood flooring?
Safe detachment of glued wood flooring involves methods minimizing damage and risk. Applying heat softens the adhesive effectively. Carefully prying up edges prevents splintering. Using a scraper lifts sections methodically. Avoiding excessive force protects the subfloor. Wearing safety gear prevents injuries. Ensuring proper ventilation reduces exposure to fumes. These techniques maintain safety throughout the removal.
How do you prepare the subfloor after removing glued-down wood flooring?
Subfloor preparation after removing glued-down wood flooring ensures a smooth surface for new flooring. Scraping removes residual adhesive thoroughly. Grinding smooths the surface evenly. Filling holes repairs imperfections adequately. Leveling compounds correct uneven areas properly. Cleaning removes dust and debris completely. This preparation creates an ideal foundation for replacement flooring.
What safety precautions must be observed when removing glued-down wood flooring?
Safety precautions are critical when removing glued-down wood flooring to prevent injuries and health issues. Wearing safety glasses protects eyes from flying debris. Using work gloves protects hands from cuts and abrasions. Ensuring good ventilation minimizes inhalation of harmful fumes. Using a dust mask prevents respiratory irritation. Proper disposal of waste materials avoids environmental contamination. These precautions ensure a safe working environment during removal.
Alright, you’ve got the lowdown! Ripping up glued-down wood flooring is definitely a workout, but with the right tools and a little patience, you can totally DIY this project and save some serious cash. Now go get ’em!