Sump Pump Failure: Causes & Prevention Tips

Sump pump failures often lead to basement flooding. The common causes of sump pump failures include a stuck switch, a clogged discharge pipe, and a power outage. Homeowners can address minor issues via DIY troubleshooting. Professional repair services are essential for complex problems to ensure effective water damage prevention.

What in the World is a Sump Pump, and Why Should I Care?

Okay, let’s be real. “Sump pump” sounds like something you’d find in a sci-fi movie, not something keeping your basement from turning into an indoor swimming pool. But trust me, if you have a basement (especially in a place with lots of rain or snow), you need to know about these unsung heroes of homeownership.

In its simplest form, a sump pump is basically a water-removal machine. Its main job is to kick water out of the sump pit, which is a hole dug at the lowest point of your basement or crawlspace.

Why is that important? Well, think of heavy rain or snow melting. Where does all that water go? If your home isn’t properly protected, it could end up inside your basement, causing all sorts of chaos. That’s where the sump pump comes in, acting like a vigilant bouncer, keeping the unwanted water out. A working sump pump is important in preventing basement flooding and water damage, especially during heavy rains or snow melts

Uh Oh, Is My Sump Pump Trying to Tell Me Something?

So, how do you know if your sump pump is starting to slack off on its water-bouncing duties? Keep an ear (and an eye) out for these warning signs:

• Strange Noises: Is your sump pump suddenly sounding like a grumpy monster? Grinding, gurgling, or any noise out of the ordinary could mean trouble.
• Standing Water: This is a biggie. If you see water pooling in your basement, even a little bit, your sump pump might not be doing its job properly.
• The Silent Treatment: Is your sump pump just… not running? Even after a heavy rain? That’s definitely not a good sign.

What We’re Going to Do About It

Don’t worry, you don’t have to call a plumber just yet. In this article, we’re going to dive into the world of sump pumps, teach you how to diagnose common problems, and even show you some simple fixes you can do yourself. Think of it as “Sump Pump Repair 101” – no prior plumbing experience required! By the end, you’ll be able to tell a stuck float switch from a clogged intake, and maybe even save yourself a few bucks in the process. Get ready to roll up your sleeves (maybe wear some waterproof ones) and become a sump pump whisperer!

Diagnosing Common Sump Pump Problems: Don’t Let Your Basement Turn into a Swimming Pool!

Alright, let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of sump pump problems. Because let’s be honest, nobody wants a surprise indoor pool party in their basement, especially when they didn’t RSVP for it! We’re going to walk through the most common issues, why they happen, and what you can do about them. Think of this as your sump pump’s personal Dr. House – diagnosing the illness before your house gets flooded!

Pump Failure: When It Just Won’t Turn On

So, your sump pump is just…dead. Silence. No ‘whirr,’ no ‘gurgle,’ nothing. This is what we call complete pump failure, and it’s usually a sign of old age or a major motor meltdown.

• Symptoms: Absolutely no operation at all. Nada.
• Potential Causes: The pump’s lived a long, full life and is ready to retire (aka old age), or the motor has given up the ghost.
• Troubleshooting: Before you throw in the towel and buy a new one, check the basics! Is it plugged in? Is the power cord damaged? Is something blocking the impeller? If all looks good and it’s still silent, it might be time to consider a replacement.

Stuck Float Switch: The Unreliable Alarm Clock

Imagine a toilet that keeps running because the flapper is stuck. That’s essentially what happens with a stuck float switch. This little guy is supposed to tell the pump when the water level is high enough to kick in.

• How it Works: As water rises, the float rises with it, eventually triggering the pump.
• Common Issues: The float can get physically stuck against the side of the sump pit or get tangled with the pump’s power cord. Sometimes, the switch itself just malfunctions internally (think of it as a grumpy, overworked employee).
• Troubleshooting: First, make sure nothing is obstructing the float’s movement. Gently reposition it and see if it starts working. If that doesn’t do the trick, the switch itself might be faulty and need replacing. Don’t forget there are two types: Tethered Float Switch, and Vertical Float Switch.

Clogged Intake: The Sump Pump’s Blocked Nose

Your sump pump is trying to drink, but it’s got a massive nose plug! A clogged intake restricts water flow to the pump, making it work harder and less efficiently.

• Causes: Sediment, debris, leaves, small toys (kids, am I right?), or anything else that finds its way into the sump pit.
• Solutions: Unplug the pump (safety first!), remove the intake screen (usually at the bottom of the pump), and clean it thoroughly. Reassemble everything and give it a test run. Remember, the intake screen is there for a reason! It’s your pump’s bodyguard against the gunk.

Frozen Discharge Pipe: When Winter Bites Back

Ah, winter! Beautiful snow, cozy fires…and frozen sump pump discharge pipes! A frozen discharge pipe prevents water from being expelled, leading to backflow, potential pump damage, and a flooded basement. Nobody wants that!

• Why it’s a Problem: If the water can’t escape, it’ll come back in, putting a strain on your pump and potentially causing it to burn out.
• Thawing Methods: Pour warm (NOT boiling – you don’t want to melt anything!) water over the pipe. You can also use a heat gun on a low setting (with extreme caution – don’t hold it in one spot for too long!) or wrap the pipe with heat tape.
• Prevention is Key: Bury the pipe deeper, insulate it, or install a freeze-resistant discharge pipe. Your future self will thank you!

No Power: The Obvious Culprit (Sometimes)

Okay, this one might seem obvious, but sometimes the simplest things are the easiest to overlook. If your pump isn’t running, make sure it’s actually getting power!

• Troubleshooting: Check the power cord for damage or loose connections. Plug another device into the electrical outlet to see if it’s working. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breaker.
• Circuit Breakers: A tripped breaker can cut power to the pump. Reset it after addressing the potential cause of the trip (overloading, electrical faults). Otherwise, it will probably just trip again.

Overcycling: The Hyperactive Sump Pump

Imagine a sump pump that just can’t chill. It’s constantly turning on and off, like a kid who’s had way too much sugar. This is overcycling, and it’s not good for the pump’s health.

• Causes: A faulty float switch, a sump pit that’s too small, or a leak in the discharge pipe.
• Solutions: Adjust the float switch, upgrade to a larger sump pit, or repair the leak.
• Why it Matters: Overcycling puts unnecessary wear and tear on the pump, shortening its lifespan. Treat it right, and it’ll treat you right (by keeping your basement dry).

Loud Noises: The Sump Pump’s Cry for Help

Is your sump pump making strange noises? Grinding, rattling, banging? It’s trying to tell you something!

• Possible Sources: A worn impeller, loose components, or debris inside the pump.
• Fixes: Inspect and replace the impeller, tighten loose screws, or clean the pump housing. Listen closely to pinpoint the source of the loud noises before you start tinkering.

Backflow: Water Reversal

Backflow is when water flows back into the sump pit after the pump shuts off. This is usually caused by a faulty check valve. The check valve is a one-way street for water, ensuring it only flows out. Inspect and replace the check valve if you suspect this is the issue.

Water Not Draining: The Big Mystery

If water is accumulating in your sump pit and not being pumped out, you’ve got a problem! This can stem from several issues, including a clogged discharge pipe, a faulty pump, or even a frozen pipe during winter. Systematically check each component to find the root cause.

Improper Installation: The Foundation of Future Problems

Improper installation can lead to reduced efficiency, increased risk of failure, and, you guessed it, potential water damage! Common mistakes include using the wrong size pump, forgetting to install a check valve, or failing to properly seal the sump pit.

Air Lock: Trapped Air

An air lock occurs when trapped air in the discharge pipe prevents the pump from priming and moving water. A simple fix is to drill a small relief hole in the discharge pipe above the pump to release the trapped air (but double-check local codes first to make sure this is allowed!).

Diving Deep: Essential Sump Pump Components and Their Repair

Okay, so you’ve got a sump pump, and it’s doing its job (hopefully!). But have you ever stopped to think about what exactly is making that magic happen? Let’s pull back the curtain and get familiar with the key players in your sump pump’s performance, so you can better troubleshoot any issues that might arise.

Sump Pump Types: A Quick Rundown

Think of sump pumps like superheroes – they all fight the same villain (water damage), but they have different powers and origin stories. Here’s the lineup:

• Submersible Sump Pump: The workhorse, lives in the water, and is generally more powerful and quieter. It’s like the Superman of sump pumps, diving right into the problem.
• Pedestal Sump Pump: Sits above the pit with a hose extending into the water. They’re generally more affordable and easier to access for repairs, think of this as more of Batman type, accessible, effective, but not as submerged.
• Battery Backup Sump Pump: Your trusty sidekick for power outages! It kicks in when the electricity goes out, keeping your basement dry. Robin to your main pump’s Batman.
• Water-Powered Sump Pump: Uses your municipal water pressure to operate. A good option for power outages, but it can increase your water bill, so consider it carefully. Think Aquaman using the powers of the ocean.

The Float Switch: The Brains of the Operation

This little gadget is the unsung hero. Think of it like the on/off switch for your pump. When the water level rises, the float rises, telling the pump to start pumping.

• Tethered Float Switch: A ball on a wire. Simple, effective, but can sometimes get tangled if your sump pit is small.
• Vertical Float Switch: A vertical rod that rises with the water level. Great for tighter spaces.

Troubleshooting: Make sure the float can move freely! Sometimes debris can block it. If it’s still acting up, it might need replacing.

Check Valve: No Backsies!

This valve is a one-way street for water. It prevents water from flowing back into the sump pit after the pump shuts off. Without it, your pump would be working overtime, and that’s no fun.

• Inspection: Look for cracks or leaks. If water is flowing back into the pit after the pump stops, the check valve is likely the culprit.

• Replacement: Luckily, replacing this isn’t too hard. Just disconnect the old one and install the new one, making sure the flow direction is correct!

Discharge Pipe: Where the Water Goes

This is the escape route for all that unwanted water.

• PVC Pipe: The champion of discharge pipes! Durable, smooth interior for better flow, and long-lasting. It’s the way to go.

• Corrugated Pipe: Flexible and easy to install, but the ridges can trap debris and reduce flow. It is also prone to cracking over time, so think twice before using it.

Installation: Make sure all connections are tight and secure to prevent leaks.

Impeller: The Water Mover

This spinning component is the heart of the pumping action.

• Damage: Debris can wreak havoc on the impeller, causing cracks or blockages.

• Inspection: Look for any visible damage or obstructions. If the pump is making strange noises, the impeller might be to blame.

Intake Screen: Keeping the Bad Stuff Out

This screen is the first line of defense against debris that could clog or damage the pump.

• Maintenance: Regularly remove and rinse the screen to ensure proper water flow. A clogged screen means a struggling pump.

Motor: The Powerhouse

The motor is what makes everything go!

• Signs of Failure: Unusual noises (grinding, squealing), overheating, or the pump turning on and off intermittently.
• When to Call a Pro: Motor repair can be tricky. Unless you’re an experienced electrician, it’s best to call in a professional.

Power Cord: The Lifeline

Don’t underestimate the importance of the power cord.

• Inspection: Regularly check for damage, frays, or cracks.
• Safety First: Never use a damaged cord! Replace it immediately to prevent electrical hazards.

Sump Basin/Pit: The Collection Point

This is where the water gathers before being pumped away.

• Maintenance: Periodically clean out sediment, debris, and stagnant water to prevent odors and clogs. A clean pit is a happy pit!

Essential Tools: Your Sump Pump Repair Arsenal

Alright, so your sump pump’s acting up, huh? Don’t panic! Before you throw in the towel and call a pro (we’ll talk about that later), let’s make sure you’re armed with the right gear. Think of this as your sump pump superhero utility belt. You wouldn’t fight crime without it, right?

• Wrenches: Picture this: You’re wrestling with a stubborn pipe connection, grunting and straining. A good pipe wrench is your best friend in these situations. It’s like the Hulk for plumbing. For more delicate maneuvers, an adjustable wrench is your go-to. It’s versatile, adaptable, and won’t leave you cursing the plumbing gods.

• Screwdrivers: Now, screwdrivers might seem basic, but trust me, you need a collection. A Phillips head and a flathead are the dynamic duo of screw-turning. Imagine trying to assemble IKEA furniture with only one screwdriver. Nightmare, right?

• Pliers: Need to grip, cut, or bend something? Pliers are your trusty sidekick. They’re like the Swiss Army knife of the toolbox.

• PVC Cutter: If you’re dealing with PVC pipes (and you probably are), a PVC cutter is a must. It slices through PVC like butter, leaving a clean, smooth edge. Forget hacksaws – this is the civilized way to cut plastic.

• Hacksaw: Okay, okay, I said forget hacksaws, but they’re still useful for metal pipes or components. Think of it as the “old reliable” of your tool collection.

• Multimeter: Things are getting serious! A multimeter is your electrical detective. It lets you test for continuity and voltage, ensuring you don’t electrocute yourself (a big no-no). If you’re not comfortable with electricity, maybe skip this one and call a pro.

• Shop Vacuum: Your sump pit is probably a swampy mess. A shop vacuum is your cleanup crew, sucking up water and debris like a champ. Plus, it’s oddly satisfying to watch it work.

• Gloves & Safety Glasses: Last but definitely not least: safety gear! Gloves protect your hands from grime and germs (because who knows what’s lurking in that sump pit?), and safety glasses shield your eyes from flying debris. Think of them as your superhero mask and cape, but for plumbing.

• Measuring Tape: Can’t forget your measuring tape! It’s your key to accurate measurements.

Essential Materials: The Building Blocks of Sump Pump Success

So, you’ve got your tools. Now, let’s stock up on the materials you’ll need to actually fix stuff.

• PVC Primer & Cement: If you’re working with PVC pipes, PVC primer and cement are your bonding agents. They’re like super glue for plumbing, creating a watertight seal that even Aquaman would envy.

• Replacement Parts: Always have some spare parts on hand! A float switch, a check valve, or even an impeller can save the day. It’s like having a spare tire for your car – you might not need it, but you’ll be glad it’s there when you do.

• Thread Sealant Tape (Teflon tape): Also known as plumber’s tape, this stuff is your secret weapon against leaks. Wrap it around threaded pipe connections for a watertight seal. It’s cheap, easy to use, and can save you from a soggy disaster.

Replacing a Float Switch: No More Sinking Feelings!

Okay, folks, let’s talk float switches. Imagine them as the brain of your sump pump. When they go haywire, your basement might as well be an indoor swimming pool. But fear not! Replacing one isn’t rocket science.

1. Safety First, Coffee Second: Before you even think about touching anything, unplug that sump pump! Seriously, water and electricity are not a fun mix.
2. Drain the Pit (Slightly): Use a bucket or a smaller pump to lower the water level in the sump pit. It doesn’t need to be bone-dry, but you want enough room to work.
3. Disconnect the Old Switch: Follow the wire from the old float switch to where it connects to the pump. Most are either plugged in or have simple wire connectors. Disconnect them carefully, noting how they were connected (take a pic with your phone!).
4. Remove the Old Switch: Depending on the type, the float switch might be tethered to the pump or attached with a clamp. Untether or unclamp it.
5. Install the New Switch: Attach the new float switch in the same way the old one was. Make sure the float has enough room to move freely without hitting the sides of the pit.
6. Connect the Wires: Reconnect the wires exactly as they were before. If you took a picture, now’s the time to use it. If they connect with wire nuts, make sure the connections are snug.
7. Test It Out: Plug the pump back in (carefully!). Raise the float manually to see if the pump kicks on. If it does, you’re golden! If not, double-check your connections.

• Pro Tip: When buying a new switch, make sure it’s the same type as the old one. Vertical float switches and tethered float switches operate differently, and you want a direct replacement.

Unclogging the Intake Screen: Clearing the Path for Pumping Power!

A clogged intake screen is like trying to drink a milkshake through a coffee stirrer – frustrating and ineffective. Here’s how to fix it:

1. Pump Off, Please: Unplug the pump! Say it with me: “Safety first!”
2. Lift and Access: Carefully lift the pump out of the sump pit. It might be a bit heavy and slimy, so wear gloves.
3. Locate the Screen: The intake screen is usually at the bottom of the pump.
4. Remove the Gunk: Remove the screen. Use a hose, brush, or your fingers (gloves!) to remove all the accumulated gunk (sediment, hair, small rocks, etc.). A clean toothbrush works wonders for stubborn bits.
5. Reassemble and Test: Put the screen back on, place the pump back in the pit, and plug it in. Pour some water into the pit to make sure the pump starts and water flows freely.

• Preventative Maintenance: Check and clean the intake screen every few months to prevent clogs in the first place. It’s a small task that can save you big headaches. A stitch in time, saves nine!

Thawing a Frozen Discharge Pipe: Breaking the Ice, Not the Bank!

A frozen discharge pipe is like a blocked artery for your sump pump. Here’s how to get things flowing again without causing a plumbing disaster:

1. Assess the Situation: Find where the pipe is frozen. Usually, it’s the section outside your house.
2. Warm Water Treatment: The safest method is to slowly pour warm (not boiling!) water over the frozen section. Be patient; it might take a while.
3. Heat Gun with Caution: If warm water isn’t cutting it, a heat gun can help, but be VERY careful! Keep it moving and use a low setting. You don’t want to melt the pipe.
4. Wrap It Up (Literally): Heat tape is a good preventative measure. Wrap the pipe with heat tape to prevent freezing in the future.
5. Prevention is Key: Insulate the pipe or bury it deeper to avoid future freezes.

• Important Note: Never use an open flame to thaw a discharge pipe! It’s a fire hazard and could damage the pipe.

Replacing a Check Valve: Stop the Backflow Blues!

The check valve is a one-way street for water leaving your sump pit. When it fails, water flows back in, making your pump work overtime. Let’s fix that.

1. Power Down: Unplug the pump. You know the drill by now.
2. Locate the Valve: The check valve is usually located on the discharge pipe, close to the pump.
3. Disconnect the Old Valve: Depending on the type, it might be threaded or clamped. Disconnect it carefully, noting the direction of the flow (usually indicated by an arrow on the valve).
4. Install the New Valve: Attach the new check valve in the same orientation as the old one. Make sure the arrow points away from the pump.
5. Secure Connections: Tighten the connections securely.
6. Test the System: Plug the pump back in and test it. Make sure water flows out and doesn’t flow back in when the pump stops.

• Choosing the Right Valve: Get a check valve that’s the same size as your discharge pipe. PVC valves are a good, durable option.

Clearing an Air Lock: Bumping the Air Out!

An air lock is like a bubble in your sump pump’s throat, preventing it from pumping water efficiently. Here’s how to give it the Heimlich maneuver:

1. Identify the Problem: If the pump runs but little to no water is coming out, you might have an air lock.
2. Drill a Relief Hole (Sometimes): As a last resort, you can drill a small (1/8-inch) relief hole in the discharge pipe just above the pump. This allows air to escape and helps prime the pump. (Check local codes first—some areas don’t allow this!).
3. Alternative Methods: Try turning the pump off and on several times in quick succession. Sometimes, the sudden burst of power can dislodge the air bubble.
4. Check the Impeller: A clogged impeller can also cause similar symptoms to an air lock. Make sure it’s clear of debris.

• Important Considerations: A relief hole is a permanent solution, but it can also allow some water to spray out during operation. Weigh the pros and cons before drilling.

Prevention and Maintenance: Keeping Your Sump Pump in Top Shape

Alright, let’s talk about how to keep your sump pump happy and healthy! Think of it like this: your sump pump is like a little soldier, constantly guarding your basement from the watery enemy. But even the best soldiers need regular check-ups and maintenance to stay in fighting shape. Ignoring your sump pump is like forgetting to feed your pet – eventually, it’s going to cause problems! So, let’s dive into some easy ways to show your sump pump some love and prevent those dreaded basement floods.

Regular Inspection of the Sump Pump and its Components

Think of this as giving your sump pump a friendly pat-down to make sure everything’s in order. We’re talking about a quick visual inspection.

• Frequency: Aim for at least quarterly checks (every three months). If you live in an area with heavy rainfall or snow, bump that up to monthly, especially during those wet seasons. It’s like checking the weather forecast – better to be prepared!

• Checklist:

  • Float Switch: Is it moving freely? Give it a gentle nudge. If it’s sticking or obstructed, it needs attention. A stuck float switch is a recipe for disaster.
  • Intake Screen: Is it clear of debris? A clogged intake screen can starve your pump of water and burn it out. Think of it as a clogged artery for your pump! Inspect regularly to prevent clogs and ensure proper water flow.
  • Discharge Pipe: Look for any cracks, leaks, or obstructions. Make sure the water is flowing freely away from your foundation. A frozen or blocked discharge pipe is a common culprit behind pump failures.
  • Pump Operation: Plug in your pump, and manually activate it by lifting the float switch. Does it turn on quickly and pump water effectively? If it sputters or struggles, something’s not right.
  • Listen closely: Are there any unusual noises coming from the pump during operation? Loud noises such as grinding or rattling, can indicate worn components.
  • Check Valve: Make sure the check valve is installed correctly and functioning properly to prevent backflow, which can damage the pump.
  • Power Cord: Check the power cord for damage.

Cleaning the Sump Basin/Pit

This is like giving your sump pit a spa day! Over time, sediment, debris, and stagnant water can accumulate, creating odors and potentially clogging the pump.

• Frequency: Clean your sump basin at least twice a year (spring and fall). If you notice a lot of sediment buildup, increase the frequency.

• Step-by-step Instructions:

  1. Disconnect the power to the sump pump. Safety first!
  2. Remove the pump from the basin.
  3. Use a shop vacuum to remove any standing water and sediment from the bottom of the basin. A shop vac is your best friend here!
  4. Scrub the sides of the basin with a brush and water to remove any buildup.
  5. Rinse the basin thoroughly with clean water.
  6. Reinstall the pump and reconnect the power.
  7. Test the pump by pouring water into the basin to ensure it’s working correctly.

Ensuring Proper Drainage Systems

Your sump pump can only do so much if the water is already flooding your yard. Ensuring proper drainage is like having a good offensive line – it protects your star player (your sump pump) from getting overwhelmed.

• Gutters and Downspouts: Make sure they’re clean and free of debris. Clogged gutters can cause water to overflow and pool around your foundation. Regularly clear leaves and debris to ensure proper water flow away from your home.
• Grading: Ensure the landscape around your foundation slopes away from your house. This helps to direct water away from your basement walls. If you notice water pooling near your foundation, consider adding soil to create a positive slope.

Checking the Electrical System

Water and electricity are a dangerous combination, so let’s make sure everything’s safe and sound.

• Power Cord and Outlet: Inspect the power cord for any damage (frays, cracks, etc.). If it’s damaged, replace it immediately. Also, make sure the outlet is working properly.
• Grounding: Ensure the pump is properly grounded. This helps to prevent electrical shock in case of a fault. If you’re not sure how to check grounding, consult a qualified electrician.

Testing the Battery Backup Sump Pump

If you have a battery backup sump pump (and you should!), it’s crucial to make sure it’s ready to go when the power goes out.

• Frequency: Test your backup pump at least every three months.

• Testing Procedure:

  1. Unplug your main sump pump from the outlet.
  2. Pour water into the sump pit to activate the backup pump.
  3. Observe the backup pump’s performance. Does it turn on quickly and pump water effectively?
  4. Check the battery level. Make sure it’s fully charged.
  5. Plug the main pump back in after testing.

By following these simple prevention and maintenance tips, you can significantly extend the life of your sump pump and keep your basement dry and worry-free. A little bit of preventative care goes a long way in avoiding costly repairs and water damage. So, get out there and show your sump pump some love!

Safety Considerations: Protecting Yourself During Sump Pump Repair – Don’t Become a Statistic!

Alright, let’s talk about the not-so-glamorous but super-important part of sump pump maintenance: safety. We all want a dry basement, but nobody wants a trip to the emergency room. Think of this section as your personal superhero cape, protecting you from the villains of electricity and questionable water.

Electrical Safety: Respect the Shock!

• Always disconnect the power before you even think about touching that pump. I know, I know, it seems obvious. But trust me, it’s the easiest safety rule to forget. Flip that breaker, unplug the pump, and then double-check. Like, seriously double-check.
• Use a non-contact voltage tester. These little gadgets are lifesavers (literally!). Wave it near the wires to ensure no sneaky electricity is lurking about. If it lights up or beeps, back away slowly and call an electrician!
• Avoid wet conditions like the plague. Water + electricity = a very bad day. Make sure the area around the sump pump is as dry as possible before you start tinkering. If there’s standing water, grab that shop vac.
• Wear rubber gloves. They aren’t just for dishwashing anymore! Rubber gloves are your first line of defense against accidental shocks. Think of them as your stylish superhero gloves.

Water Hazards: Beware the Basement Brew

• Standing water in your sump pit? Yeah, that’s probably not the freshest mountain spring water. It can be contaminated with all sorts of nasties. So, when you are removing or cleaning your sump pump, make sure you are wearing gloves.
• Protective gear is your friend. Besides gloves, consider wearing boots, especially if there’s any chance of splashing. Closed-toe shoes are also a good idea – nobody wants a rusty nail souvenir.
• Wash those hands! After you’re done wrestling with the sump pump, scrub your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Even if you wore gloves, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. You’ve been warned!

So, next time your sump pump throws a fit, don’t panic! A little troubleshooting can go a long way. And hey, if you’re still scratching your head, don’t hesitate to call in a pro. Better safe than sorry (and dry!).