Winterize Above Ground Pool | Pool Closing Kit

Closing an above ground pool is a task that is essential for pool owners in regions where winter brings freezing temperatures. A proper pool closing kit includes chemicals for balancing water and protecting against algae growth. The process of winterizing involves several critical steps, such as removing pool accessories, lowering the water level, and covering the pool with a durable pool cover. Neglecting these steps can lead to significant damage from ice expansion, requiring costly repairs to the pool liner and structure in the spring.

Alright, folks, let’s talk about the dreaded “W” word – winterizing. I know, I know, the fun’s over, and the pool parties are a distant memory. But before you start dreaming of next summer, listen up! Properly winterizing your above-ground pool isn’t just some chore; it’s an act of pool preservation. Think of it as tucking your aquatic friend in for a long winter’s nap, ensuring it wakes up refreshed and ready for another season of splashing.

Why is this so crucial? Simple: neglect leads to disaster. Freezing temps, sneaky algae, and the general wear and tear of winter can wreak havoc on your pool’s delicate parts. Imagine waking up in the spring to find cracked pipes, a liner resembling a science experiment, and a swamp instead of a sparkling oasis. No bueno, right?

Think of winterizing as a straightforward insurance policy. We’re going to go through the main steps, which includes:

• Cleaning
• Water Chemistry Balancing
• Partial Draining
• Adding Winterizing Chemicals
• Protecting the Plumbing
• Cover Installation

Each step is straightforward, but the combination keeps your above-ground pool healthy for years.

Neglecting these steps is like inviting trouble with open arms. Cracked pipes? Cha-ching! Damaged liner? Another cha-ching! Algae blooms that look like they belong in a horror movie? You guessed it, more cha-ching! Trust me, the cost of repairs far outweighs the time and effort spent on proper winterization. So, let’s dive in (metaphorically, of course – it’s too cold for actual diving!). We’ll get your pool prepped for its winter slumber so you can look forward to a stress-free and splashtastic spring opening.

Phase 1: Pre-Closing Cleaning – Setting the Stage for Winter

Alright, folks, before we tuck our beloved pools in for their long winter nap, we gotta make sure they’re squeaky clean. Think of it like sending your kids to bed without a bath after a mud fight – not a pretty picture, right? Same goes for your pool! Neglecting this step is like rolling out the welcome mat for stains, algae parties, and a whole lot of unpleasantness come springtime. So, let’s roll up our sleeves and get this pool looking pristine!

• First things first, we’re talking about a deep clean, almost like a spring clean, but for autumn. We want to ensure we get the pool in the best possible condition.
• Think of this phase like you are spring cleaning, because you are cleaning before the winter comes.

Brushing the Pool Thoroughly: Giving Those Walls a Good Scrub

Imagine you’re giving your pool a spa day – the first step is a good, vigorous scrub!

• Why? Because those sneaky algae spores and bits of dirt love to cling to the walls, floor, and steps.
• If we don’t dislodge them now, they’ll throw a rave all winter long, and trust me, you don’t want to deal with that mess when it’s time to open up again.
• Grab a sturdy pool brush – one with the right bristles for your pool’s surface (no scratching allowed!).
• Give everything a good once-over, putting some elbow grease into those stubborn spots. It’s a great workout, too – who needs the gym?

Vacuuming for a Spotless Finish: Sucking Up the Grime

Next up: vacuuming! Think of it as sucking up all the evidence of summer fun.

• All that settled debris needs to go, so grab your pool vacuum (manual or automatic, whatever floats your boat…or cleans your pool, in this case).
• A manual vacuum is great for a little extra control and getting into those hard-to-reach corners.
• An automatic one lets you kick back and relax while it does the work – because you deserve it!
• Either way, make sure you cover every inch of the pool, leaving no crumb (or speck of dirt) behind.

Surface Debris Removal: Skimming Away the Leftovers

Finally, let’s clear the surface. You wouldn’t leave a bunch of leaves floating in your soup, would you? (Okay, maybe some of you would…but still!).

• A leaf rake or net is your best friend here.
• Scoop out all those leaves, twigs, bugs (RIP), and whatever else decided to take a dip.
• And here’s a pro tip: make this a regular thing in the weeks leading up to closing.
• The less organic gunk you have in the pool, the better. It’s all about minimizing that organic load, my friends.

With these cleaning steps complete, your pool is ready for its winter slumber. Getting your pool ready for its winter slumber is key to the ease and longevity of the product’s use. A pool that is ready for winter, is ready for a spring cleaning!

Phase 2: Water Chemistry – Achieving the Perfect Balance

Okay, so you’ve scrubbed and vacuumed your pool until it sparkles. Now, let’s talk about the invisible stuff – the water chemistry! Think of your pool water as Goldilocks’ porridge: it can’t be too acidic, too alkaline, or too anything. It has to be just right! Why? Because imbalanced water is like a tiny gremlin gnawing away at your pool’s surfaces and equipment all winter long. Nobody wants that!

Why Bother Balancing? It’s Just Water, Right?

Wrong! Imbalanced water is a menace. Too acidic? It’ll corrode metal parts, leading to rust and expensive repairs. Too alkaline? You’ll end up with scaling (that nasty white buildup) on your liner and equipment. And trust me, nobody wants to spend their spring chipping away at that. Plus, the wrong balance creates a breeding ground for algae to throw the ultimate algae bloom party, making your spring opening a swampy nightmare.

So, what are we aiming for? Here’s the cheat sheet:

• pH: Aim for 7.2 – 7.8.
• Alkalinity: Keep it between 80 – 120 ppm (parts per million). This acts as a buffer, preventing wild pH swings.
• Calcium Hardness: Ideally, 200 – 400 ppm. Too low and the water becomes corrosive; too high, and you get scaling.
• Sanitizer (Chlorine or Bromine): This varies depending on your system, but a good starting point is 1-3 ppm for chlorine or 3-5 ppm for bromine. We’ll be bumping this up when we add winterizing chemicals, so don’t stress this too much right now.

Time to Get Your Lab Coat On: Testing Your Pool Water

Alright, enough theory! Time to channel your inner scientist. You’ll need a reliable test kit or test strips. Personally, I prefer a liquid test kit because they tend to be more accurate, but test strips are super convenient and a great option if you’re looking for something quicker and easier to use! You can also take a water sample to your local pool store and have them do a comprehensive analysis for a small fee.

No matter your test of choice, here’s how to collect a good sample:

1. Reach about elbow-deep into the water away from the skimmer or return jets.
2. Invert the container (if using a bottle) to that water fills into and then turn it upright.
3. Follow the instructions on your test kit or strips carefully. Don’t rush this step. Accuracy is key!

The Fun Part: Adjusting the Chemistry

Okay, so your test results are in. Now what? Don’t panic! Adjusting chemical levels is easier than you think. Just be sure to add chemicals to water, and never the other way around.

• To Raise pH: Use soda ash (sodium carbonate). Add it gradually, according to the product instructions. Test again after a few hours to see if you’ve hit your target range.
• To Lower pH: Use muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) or dry acid (sodium bisulfate). Again, follow the instructions carefully.
• To Raise Alkalinity: Use alkalinity increaser (sodium bicarbonate).
• To Raise Calcium Hardness: Use calcium chloride.

Safety Note: I cannot stress this enough: Always add chemicals to water, never water to chemicals. And wear protective gear: gloves and eye protection are a must. Store chemicals in a cool, dry place, away from curious kids and pets.

Once you’ve adjusted the levels, let the water circulate for a while (check your chemical’s instructions), and then test again to make sure everything is balanced. Achieving that perfect balance now will save you headaches and money in the spring!

Phase 3: Lowering the Water Level – Protecting Against Freezing Damage

Ever wonder why you can’t just leave your above-ground pool brimming with water all winter? Well, think of it like this: water is usually pretty chill (pun intended!), but when it freezes, it gets a bit… expansive. And that’s not a good thing when it’s trapped inside your pool!

Why Lower the Water Level?

Imagine your pool walls and skimmer as party balloons. Now, imagine filling those balloons with water and then freezing them. POP! Right? Freezing water expands, and that expansion puts a ton of pressure on your pool’s structure. This pressure can lead to cracks, warping, and other costly damage to the pool walls and skimmer (not fun!).

And just to be clear, we’re talking about a partial drain, not turning your pool into a sad, empty pit stop for leaves and critters. We’re not trying to give your pool an existential crisis; just protecting it!

Methods for Draining

Alright, so how do we get that water outta there? You’ve got a couple of options, depending on how quickly you want to get the job done:

• Submersible Pump: Think of this as the turbo-charged method. A submersible pump is an electric pump that sits right in the water and aggressively pumps it out. It’s fast, efficient, and perfect if you’re impatient (like me!). Just toss it in, plug it in, and watch that water disappear!

• Siphon: If you’re feeling more “zen” about the whole draining process, a siphon might be your jam. This is a slower, gravity-fed method that involves using a hose to create a suction effect. You’ll need to get the hose filled with water and positioned just right, but once it’s going, it’s a hands-off operation. Plus, it’s a great excuse to relax by the pool with a beverage while nature does its thing!

Ideal Water Level

Now, for the million-dollar question: how much water do you actually need to remove? Well, it depends on your pool type and local climate, but here’s a general rule of thumb: aim to lower the water level below the skimmer but above the return jets. This prevents water from freezing in the skimmer and damaging it, while still keeping the liner submerged and protected.

But, here’s the best advice you’ll get all day: consult your pool manufacturer’s instructions! They know your pool better than anyone and can give you the exact water level recommendation for your specific model. Trust the experts, folks! They’re not just trying to sell you stuff; they actually want your pool to survive the winter.

Phase 4: Winterizing Chemicals – Banish the Green Goblin (Algae!) and Other Nasties

Alright, folks, now that your pool is squeaky clean and the water level is just right, it’s time for the magic potion! We’re talking about winterizing chemicals. Think of these as the pool’s personal bodyguards, keeping the water fresh and clear while it takes a long winter’s nap. Without these, you might as well roll out the welcome mat for algae and bacteria – and trust me, you do not want that spring surprise.

Applying Winterizing Chemicals: Arming Your Pool’s Defense System

So, what are these mystical chemicals, and what do they do? You’ll need two main players: algaecide and shock.

• Algaecide: This is your pre-emptive strike against the dreaded green algae. It’s like setting up a force field that says, “Algae, you shall not pass!” Go for a high-quality winter algaecide – it’s worth the investment.
• Shock: Winter shock acts as a clean-up crew, oxidizing any lingering organic contaminants that might be lurking in your pool water. Opt for a non-chlorine shock specifically designed for winterizing. Why non-chlorine? Because it plays nicely with the algaecide and won’t fade your liner.

Step-by-Step Chemical Application: The Right Order Matters!

Now, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. Adding these chemicals isn’t just about dumping them in and hoping for the best. There’s a method to this madness!

1. Read the Labels! I can’t stress this enough. Every product is different, so always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for dosage. It’s the golden rule of pool chemistry.
2. Algaecide First: Typically, you’ll want to add the algaecide first. This gives it time to disperse and start working its magic before you shock the pool.
3. Shock It to ‘Em: Next up, it’s shock time! Carefully add the appropriate amount of non-chlorine shock to the pool water, following the product instructions to the letter.
4. Let It Circulate: Once you’ve added both chemicals, let them circulate for the time specified on the product labels – usually around 24 hours. This ensures that they’re evenly distributed throughout the pool and doing their job effectively.

Chemical Handling Safety: Play It Safe, Folks!

Now, before you go all Walter White on your pool, let’s talk safety. Pool chemicals are serious business, and you need to handle them with respect.

• Warning: Always, always wear gloves and eye protection when handling any pool chemicals. You don’t want to mess with burns or chemical splashes.
• Storage is Key: Store all your pool chemicals in a cool, dry place, far away from children and pets. Lock them up if you have to!
• Never Mix! I can’t say this enough: never, ever mix different pool chemicals together. This can create dangerous fumes and even explosions. Seriously, don’t do it.

Follow these steps, and you’ll be well on your way to a clean, algae-free pool when spring rolls around. Now, let’s move on to protecting that plumbing!

Phase 5: Protecting the Plumbing – Sealing and Disconnecting

Alright, water warriors, now we’re diving into the nitty-gritty of safeguarding your pool’s circulatory system! Imagine your pool’s plumbing as its veins and arteries. We need to make sure they don’t freeze up and crack like an over-iced beverage. Freezing pipes are about as fun as a polar bear in a sauna, so let’s avoid that, shall we?

Plugging the Lines: Sealing the Deal

Think of winterizing plugs as tiny, dependable guardians blocking the entrances to your pool’s plumbing. You need to stop water from sneaking into those pipes, freezing, and then expanding like a grumpy balloon animal. First, we tackle the skimmer and return lines. These are where water flows in and out of your pool, and they’re prime targets for Old Man Winter’s mischief.

Now, let’s talk about Gizzmos. No, not the fuzzy creature from that 80’s movie (Gizmo). These pool Gizmos are special plugs designed specifically for your skimmer. When ice forms, it expands upwards into the Gizzmo instead of outwards, cracking your expensive skimmer. It’s like giving the ice a designated playground so it doesn’t break your toys!

Disconnecting Equipment: Time to Say Goodbye (For Now)

Next, we need to play “unplug and drain.” Disconnect all those hoses from your pump and filter system. Those hoses are like water highways, and we’re shutting them down for the winter.

Important: Make sure you drain every last drop of water from your pumps, filters, and heaters. Water left inside can freeze and cause cracks or other damage. It’s like leaving a glass of water in the freezer—not a pretty sight! No one wants a surprise repair bill in the spring.

Equipment Removal and Storage: Indoor Hibernation

Finally, it’s time to move your pool’s vital organs indoors. Pumps, filters, and heaters hate the cold as much as you do. Store them in a dry place, away from freezing temperatures. It’s like giving them a cozy winter vacation so they’re ready to spring back into action next season!

Oh, and before you stash away that filter, give it a good cleaning (more on that in Phase 7). Trust me, you’ll thank yourself when you’re not dealing with a swamp monster lurking in your filter next year!

Installing The Pool Cover

Alright, folks, you’ve done the hard work—the scrubbing, the chemical balancing, the plumbing gymnastics. Now comes the satisfying part: wrapping your pool up for its long winter nap. Think of it as tucking it in with a giant, protective blanket. This stage is all about the pool cover, your trusty shield against the elements, wayward leaves, and anything else Mother Nature might throw its way.

Preparing the Pool Cover

Before you even think about wrestling that cover into place, let’s talk pool pillows. These aren’t just for decoration; they’re the unsung heroes of winter pool care. Pool pillows sit under your winter cover to:

• Absorb ice expansion: They act as a buffer between the ice and the cover, preventing the ice from putting direct pressure on the pool walls and skimmer, potentially causing cracks or other damage.
• Prevent cover damage: By supporting the weight of snow and ice, the pillows keep the cover from stretching or tearing.

Think of them as the pool’s personal airbag! Inflate them to the recommended pressure—not too hard, not too soft, just right. A good rule of thumb is to place one large pillow in the center of the pool for smaller pools, or multiple pillows evenly spaced for larger pools. Distribute them so they support the center of the cover, preventing sagging.

Securing The Pool Cover

Now, for the main event: getting that cover on. Grab your winter cover and take a deep breath. If you have someone to help you, now’s the time to call them. This is definitely a task that’s easier with two sets of hands. Here’s the game plan:

• Unfurl the cover carefully, making sure it’s the right way up. Most covers have a specific orientation.
• Drape it over the pool, trying to center it as much as possible. Don’t worry if it’s not perfect; you can adjust it later.

Once the cover is in place, it’s time to secure it. This is where your cover clips, fasteners, water tubes, or sandbags come in. If you have cover clips or fasteners that attach directly to the pool frame, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. These usually involve clipping the cover to the top rail of the pool. For those using water tubes or sandbags:

• Fill them about two-thirds full.
• Lay them around the perimeter of the pool, overlapping slightly to create a continuous seal. This will weigh down the cover and prevent it from blowing away in the wind.

Ensure Proper Pool Cover Security

Alright, listen up, because this is crucial: a loose cover is an accident waiting to happen. We’re talking Safety First! This will also help protect it from damage or ripping due to the harsh winter weather.
Make sure the cover is taut and secure to prevent accidents, especially with children and pets. You should:

• Regularly check the cover throughout the winter.
• Ensure it remains in place.
• Check for ice building up and any damage to the cover.
• Remove the snow off it as soon as possible to maintain it.

By following these steps, you’ll create a fortress of protection around your pool, ensuring it stays safe and sound all winter long.

Phase 7: Equipment Maintenance – Preparing for Next Season

Alright, you’ve tucked your pool in for its long winter nap. But hold on, partner! We’re not quite done yet. Think of this phase as prepping your trusty sidekicks – your filter and pump – for their next big adventure. Neglecting them now is like sending a superhero into battle with a rusty shield and a leaky suit. Let’s keep our equipment in tip-top shape!

Filter System Maintenance: Giving Your Filter Some TLC

Your filter has been working overtime all season, catching everything from stray leaves to rogue bugs. Now’s the time to show it some love. The exact cleaning process depends on what type of filter you have, so let’s break it down:

• Sand Filters: It’s backwashing time! Give your sand filter a good backwash to get rid of trapped debris. You can also use a filter cleaner for a deeper clean. A good soak can do wonders.
• Cartridge Filters: Pop that cartridge out and give it a good hosing down. A stiff brush can help remove stubborn dirt. If it’s really grimy, use a filter cleaner solution. Remember to rinse thoroughly!
• DE Filters: These require a bit more elbow grease. You’ll need to disassemble the filter and rinse the grids individually. Be gentle! Again, a filter cleaner can be a lifesaver here.

No matter what type of filter you have, consider using a filter cleaner to remove stubborn dirt and oils. These cleaners are specially formulated to break down the gunk that normal rinsing just can’t handle.

Pump Maintenance: A Little Attention Goes a Long Way

Your pump is the heart of your pool system, so let’s make sure it’s ready to pump another season. First, and most importantly, ensure the pump housing is completely drained. Freezing water expands and can crack the housing – a costly mistake!

Next, give your pump a good once-over. Look for any signs of wear or damage, like cracks, leaks, or frayed wires. Address these issues before storing the pump; a stitch in time saves nine (and a lot of money!). Finally, find a dry, indoor location for your pump to spend the winter. This will protect it from the elements and keep it in prime condition for next year’s pool party season.

Taking these steps now will save you headaches and money come springtime. Plus, you’ll be the hero of your own backyard!

Phase 8: Final Safety Measures – Preventing Accidents: The “Oops, Did I Leave the Gate Open?” Prevention Plan

Okay, so you’ve scrubbed, chemically balanced, and covered your pool like it’s Fort Knox. But hold up! Don’t just pat yourself on the back and head inside for hot cocoa just yet. We need to talk about something super important: safety! Winterizing isn’t just about protecting your pool; it’s about protecting the people and critters around it too. Think of it as the final boss level of pool closing.

Ladder Removal: Making the Climb Impossible (Almost!)

Alright, picture this: it’s a chilly winter afternoon, and little Timmy is feeling adventurous. He spots the pool, maybe covered in a tempting layer of snow, and thinks, “Hey, I bet I can climb up there!” Yikes! That’s a recipe for disaster. This is where ladder removal comes in.

• Take those steps or that ladder off and store them far, far away (inside a shed or garage is ideal). This simple act is like removing the welcome mat for unwanted pool explorers.
• This isn’t just for kids, either. Furry friends can also get into trouble. A curious pup might wander onto a snow-covered pool cover and… splash! Removing the ladder keeps everyone safe and sound. Trust us, they’ll thank you (maybe with a bark or a purr).

Electrical Safety: Unplug and Protect!

Electricity and water are like that couple who always fight at parties – it’s best to keep them separated. Even though your pool is closed, there’s still a potential for electrical hazards.

• First and foremost, disconnect the power to your pump. No ifs, ands, or buts. Unplug it, flip the breaker – do whatever it takes to ensure it’s completely off.
• Consider covering those exposed electrical connections with a waterproof cover. Think of it as a little raincoat for your wires. If possible, store any electrical cords indoors.
• Don’t be tempted to leave anything plugged in “just in case.” It’s not worth the risk. Winter is long, and accidents can happen.

By taking these final safety measures, you’re not just winterizing your pool; you’re creating a safe environment for everyone around it. Now that’s something to feel good about!

Phase 9: Troubleshooting Potential Problems – Don’t Let Winter Win!

Okay, you’ve buttoned up your above-ground pool for the winter – high five! But even with the best-laid plans, sometimes Old Man Winter likes to throw curveballs. Let’s talk about a few potential headaches and how to dodge ’em, so your pool is ready to party come springtime. Think of this as your “just in case” guide. You know, like that umbrella you keep in your car… just in case!

Keeping Jack Frost at Bay: Frozen Pipes (Minimize Concerns)

Now, unlike inground pools with miles of buried plumbing, above-ground pools usually don’t face the same level of frozen pipe peril. BUT – if you have any exposed plumbing – perhaps a run of pipe leading to your shed where you bravely stored your equipment, or the pipes themselves, it’s worth taking a peek.

• Insulation is Your Friend: Wrap any exposed pipes with foam pipe insulation from your local hardware store. It’s cheap, easy to install, and can save you a lot of grief. Think of it as a cozy winter coat for your pipes.
• Submersible Heater Consideration: In areas with seriously brutal winters (we’re talking polar vortex levels of cold), some folks use a small submersible heater in the pool. This keeps the water from freezing solid. Use with extreme caution – follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely, and ensure it’s a reputable product designed for this purpose. Maybe not the best idea if you have curious kids or pets who might try to “swim” in winterized pool!

Battling the Great Escape: Water Leaks

A slow leak over the winter can be a real drag, leading to a lower water level and potentially damaging your cover. Be proactive!

• Regular Check-Ups: Every few weeks, brave the cold and give your pool area a quick once-over. Is the cover still snug? Is the water level noticeably lower than when you closed it?
• Patch It Up: If you spot any tears or damage to your cover, fix it immediately. Duct tape works in a pinch, but a proper patch kit is a better long-term solution. A small investment now can prevent a big headache later.
• Water Level Watch: Even with no visible tears, significant water loss might indicate a leak elsewhere, possibly in the skimmer area. Keep an eye on the water level, especially after heavy rain or snow.

Spring Cleaning Avoidance: Minimizing Start-Up Headaches

The best way to troubleshoot spring start-up problems is to prevent them in the first place!

• Follow The Gospel of Winterization: That’s right, all the steps we’ve outlined in this guide are your secret weapon against spring opening woes. The more diligent you are now, the less scrubbing you’ll be doing later.
• Photo Evidence: Before you cover your pool, snap a few photos. This can be super helpful when you’re opening it back up in the spring and trying to remember how everything was connected. Trust us, future you will thank you.
• Document Settings and Components: When removing equipment, especially from the pump system, label and take photos of the process so that you can install it back into the original order.

And that’s a wrap on your pool for the season! It might seem like a lot of work, but trust me, future you will be thanking you when you open up a clean and well-maintained pool next year. Now you can kick back, relax, and start dreaming of those summer days to come.